My sincere thanks to the fire fairies who set this up for us. Day 3: From camp, descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. I am now a retired academic, so I was able, in all three trips, to exploit my college timing to hike in early September before the start of classes. In between two crossings of the Sierra backbone at Muir Pass and Piute Pass, we'll visit beautiful and famous Evolution Valley. This is an excellent report on a great hiking trip. Okay, I need my camera again. Join Outside+ to get access to exclusive content, 1,000s of training plans, and more. We slept near the shores of Evolution Lake. 1993 . 4 trip report day 8-12: Red's Meadow Resort to Muir Trail Ranch. But the views from the trail made up for it. The canister is a whole lotta bulky but is worth its weight should a bruin decide hed like some chocolate with his berries. Piute Pass going in is a bit of a doozy so push on over and head for lower altitude camping or you may be whacked by the elevation. Day 5: Cushy Day was followed by Payback Day. What a sight! We offer this guided journey in three itineraries: 3-day Ultralight 4-day Backpacking (July 23-26, 2022) 5-day Backpacking (July 16-20, 2022) A number of camp sites here. it has all the beauty you can think of, in fact you will get a beauty intake overdoz lol. GoPro video as I forded Evolution Creek, just north of Evolution Meadow. Fantastic hike! Sawyer Water Filters are popular because of their light weight and ease of use, but the bags they provide are susceptible to developing leaks. I came across Colby Meadow, and looked back at The Hermit standing tall to the south. Mosquitos are out a bit especially in Evolution Valley and Piute Creek. At Muir Pass base, if the snow looks significant above, take the first stream crossing at the very bottom of Muir Pass because the stream only gets deeper going up. It often has waterfalls cascading from its outlet because of the abrupt drop off. GoPro video as I crossed the wooden bridge. Just needed a puffy jacket, could skip the fleece. The fourth day we packed back to the Florence lake JMT trail junction. I left the trail to follow right along the creek, and took way too many photos and videos. Did this a decade ago and want to do it again! Those who use the SteriPen, or any other filter system, are wise to carry a backup such as Potable Aqua Water Treatment Tablets. The lowest lakes in Dusy and Evolution basin are mostly thawed. "All truth goes through three stages. Located in California's beautiful eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains, Inyo National Forest offers challenging trails, high mountain peaks, and unparalleled views. She was seriously considering it. It all worked out in the end, however. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. Building anything out here must be quite the challenge. I finally had a chance to use the water shoes Id been carrying! I was overjoyed, and felt a million times better. Darwin via the class 3 West Ridge. The next morning, we continued on the Piute Trail and crossed the bridge onto the John Muir Trail (JMT) where we were paralleling a fast-moving San Joaquin River located within the Kings Canyon National Park. Beautiful trip! We started at 8,200 feet and camped at 11,200 feet. That pond is the same pond I had lunch at last year descending from Bishop Pass into Le Conte Canyon. No water issues at all--everything is flowing well. One way for an adult is $15, round-trip $28; children 12 and under are $7 and $13. Bridge at JMT junction Stream crossing below Goddard Canyon turnoff Bridge below Goddard Canyon Back across Goddard Canyon Log crossing below Evolution Meadow View up Evolution Valley Gould, Mendel, and Darwin Darwin to Huxley, the Evo traverse crux It was a very long day. One time, we found beers in the Muir Hut with a note 'Take only one'. Day Zero Travel day. Oh boy. I should just quit messing around and tape the thing to my face. Parking: A large parking lot for overnight trips is situated close to the lake. So peaceful and tranquil. After lunch was finished, I reluctantly put on my pack and continued hiking in the roasting sun. There were hikers with quick-drying shoes that just walked right in, but most of us had a chance to talk as we dried our feet. Saw plenty of deer, and other hikers saw a few bears in the meadows. I woke up before dawn, as usual. I also crossed Evolution creek at the alternate, which was swampy but looked much easier than the main crossing. It was great to get back and do another hike in the High Sierra. Those first four and last four miles are always the hottest. The first thing the trail did was cross the river on a wooden bridge, far upstream from its merging with Evolution Creek, so it was still relatively small. Moderate. Then I ate some dinner and took photos and videos of the waterfall that was just downstream from my tent. Highly recommend spending time in McClure Meadow if possible on this hike. On my way between JMT and Piute there were 5+ stream crossings that necessitated wading. There was a traditional wide and shallow ford. We are here: Evolution Basin Total Mileage: ~57 miles Total Elevation Loss/Gain: ~9,500 feet (a few hundred feet more gain than loss) Length: 6 days Trailhead: We started at North Lake at Piute Trailhead (~9,400 feet) Mountain Passes: Piute, Muir and Bishop Hike through spectacular Evolution Basin Marvel at views from Muir, Bishop and Piute Passes Explore remote lakes and ridges Includes Group cooking gear and bear-proof food containers Vegetarian-friendly meals and snacks Campsites and all permits Overview The Trip "How glorious a greeting the sun gives the mountains! On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time, and eventually camped along Piute Creek. I would love to do it sometime, so thank you for the inspiration. They were running a bit late to make it to Canada before the Autumn snows, and they knew it. The air seemed to be getting a bit cooler, so I packed up my stuff and headed out. Following the PCT southward another 4 miles will bring you to Evolution Meadow. Explore Evolution Valley - view hand-curated trail maps and driving directions as well as detailed reviews and photos from hikers, campers and nature lovers like you. But the point is we were beat! We hiked it in 7 days but could have done in 6. While there are no 14,000 ft peaks in these groups the peak are high and majestic. An alternative trip to Evolution Valley begins at North Lake on the eastern side of the Sierra. We fell about 2 miles short of the destination endpoint with loss of daylightlesson learned, if this is a short weekend excursion, you need to get there early and push through hard. We got there between 4:30-5 on a week day and there wasn't anyone available -- so we hitched and got a ride pretty easily. I was OK with this, as its hard to tell distance when youre hiking fast downhill, as it feels so much different heading the other way. Ascending out of 5,400-foot Taboose Pass Trail Head in the Owens River Valley, the Goliath climbs steeply and starkly into a saw blade of 13,000- to 14,000-foot Central Sierra mountains. Scale: 1:47,520 or inch representing 3/4 mile. I highly recommend this one. "Ridicule is the tribute that mediocrity pays to genius. July 10 - 14. For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page, For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page, Dawn alpenglow over Evolution Lake as I packed up all my gear for another big day of hiking, Dawn color in the clouds above Evolution Valley to the north, Waterfall on the creek that descends from Darwin Bench, after the JMT descends into Evolution Valley, Crossing the creek below the waterfall it was very wide with many small crossings, The Hermit (12328 feet elevation), standing alone and shining bright, at the upper end of Evolution Valley, View up Evolution Valley, over McClure and Colby Meadows with Evolution Creek on the right, and The Hermit, center, The McClure Meadow Ranger Station and the notices outside near the trail, View over McClure Meadow in the morning light, Still water on an curving stretch of Evolution Creek, down in the flat section of Evolution Valley, This is the lower ford of Evolution Creek, where the PCT-JMT crosses this could be dangerous in Spring, The first of several powerful waterfalls and cascades on Evolution Creek down at the lower end of Evolution Valley, One waterfall after another on this section of the creek, Wide-angle GoPro shot looking down into the worn granite where Evolution Creek tumbled downward, One last view of Evolution Creek as it churned down a granite chute on its way out of Evolution Valley, Mount Henry (12196 feet) peeking out between two glaciated granite domes above the South Fork San Joaquin River, The wooden bridge where the JMT-PCT first crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, Aspen and pine forest at a much lower elevation it was HOT, The metal bridge where the PCT-JMT crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, View from the metal bridge looking north (downstream), The South Fork San Joaquin River as I hiked north on the John Muir Trail in the sun, The river goes through a steep gorge down below a talus slide. Day two Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park) at mile 17.4. Or bag flattopped Mt. The next morning, we hiked past beautiful Wanda Lake and up to Muir Pass where we briefly went into the Muir Hut (built in 1930). . My [growing] Collection of Top Utah Hiking Trails, Five ways to make enemies at a public campground, Seeking Powder Hounds: Heli-Skiing the Northwest. There must have been many more waterfalls on the way down, but, sadly, that wasnt part of my plan for the day. I had heard from many thru hikers that Evolution Valley was the absolute best. In addition, The John Muir Trail may be accessed via Piute Pass from North Lake which is only 10 miles from the resort. Others seemed to have no issues on the regular crossing. Highly recommend bringing a bug net to wear if you think you will encounter them. There are possible campsites on Darwin Bench. The log cabin is located on the right side of the trail as you hike south a short distance before the Piute Creek bridge. Maybe not bathing for three days has its advantages. My AllTrails recording showed 59.4 miles at the termination point (South Lake overnight parking lot) with over 10,000' elevation gain. Grand views of the high sierra. Beautiful scenery, abundant water, breathtaking vistas. Evolution Valley was flower-filled, even in this drought year. Get full access to Outside Learn, our online education hub featuring in-depth fitness, nutrition, and adventure courses and more than 2,000 instructional videos when you sign up for Outside+ Day four Rest and explore. First it is ridiculed. Once there, you will want several days to enjoy the tranquility of the valley and explore the surrounding lakes, canyons, and peaks. Day 2: Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park). Camp, or finish the last 2.7 miles to the trailhead. Starting at the North Lake TH, we will cross Piute Pass (11,423'). Water was flowing on a lot of the trail down. 5.1 trip report. Good campsites can be found along the river beyond the Piute Creek bridge. To avoid the risk of getting sick, most Sierra backpackers filter or treat their drinking water. We were lucky with good weather. Camp at Wanda Lake along the trail to Muir Pass; no campsites after first quarter mile (night 3). I have to say, however, that descending into Le Conte Canyon from Dusy Basin, and not the other way around, seemed like the more fortunate direction for my legs and backside. It is visible from the trail, but some hikers have walked past it without noticing it. I have done it over 4 days - 3 nights and my backpack was around 42 pounds. They came across a congregation of stunning peaks lining the South Fork of the San Joaquin River, and they altered course to the glaciated valley beneath them, finding clear lakes, dwarf meadows, and jagged sky-stabbing peaks. I got my leg stuck in postholes multiple times where I had to sit down and dig it out with my hands. This was fortunate, because I dont think we could have walked any further even if you told us there was free cold beer around the next bend served by Matthew McConaughey. Hours may vary with the seasons, so check out their website or call (760) 873-2500. The hike isn't strenuous, and even the switchbacks didn't feel that bad. Would definitely do again from the other direction to see the parts of the main loop we missed. Then I continued north. if you go over table top mountain you can make it a complete loop. amazing. It was a fine pace, but sometimes I just wanted the extra time to really settle into the vistas. The 56-chromosome karyotype associated with P. i. neglectus is generally larger than P. i. inornatus and has been identified from the western side of the San Joaquin Valley and the Carrizo Plain (Patton and Rogers 1993). Note: Bishop Pass hikers will encounter dozens deer skeletons on the steep slope below Bishop Pass. Day three Descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. But that suited me fine. When Hikers Die, Why Are We So Quick to Judge. Here is a brief summary of our route: South Lake Trailhead - Bishop Pass - Dusy Basin - LeConte Canyon - Muir Pass - Evolution Valley - Puite Creek Canyon - Humphrey's Basin - Piute Pass - North Lake Trailhead. Oh well. The water was seriously cascading as it made its way over the steep edge of the valley, flowing downward into the South Fork San Joaquin River Valley, which I could see off the edge of space to the north. Thunder some days. I put on my night clothing and used a bit of DEET on my face to repel them. This great hike to scenic Piute Pass ascends beneath the multi-hued Piute Crags to a beautiful lakes basin tucked beneath Mt. 2 trip report day 0-4: getting in & Yosemite National Park warm up. As a backup, some soft-sided water bottles such as the Platypus will thread onto the filter and work just as well. Continue straight at this 3-way in Hutchinson Meadow. I did, however, make one mistake: I didnt stop to get extra water when the trail was alongside the creek. Quite a few creek crossings which were hard to avoid getting feet wet, but easily done. As we got going again I was giving myself a pretty serious mental pep talk about taking it easy and giving myself the time needed to work my way up the 700 feet of rocky switchbacks. We also brought along dark chocolate and tequila for special-treat nights. kelly e. No matter how heavy my pack is I always leave room for some whiskey. Sign up for Outside+ today. Lots of camping spots with water so you can make your day as long or short as you like. We camped alone; in fact, we camped alone every night of the trip. But we didnt see any rangers. Does this seem like a fair deal to you? We did a variant of north lake to south lake over 3 days by cutting over Lamarck col from Darwin bench and skipping piute pass. Erika, the alpine pond photograph posted next to the Day 2 text is stunning. Amazing. however, if you are an average backpacker like me, expect some brutal acents and decents. The other entrance is by way of North Lake going over Piute Pass (11,500') and passing through Humphries Basin and Piute Canyon. For lunch we had tortillas with peanut butter or string cheese plus trail mix for snacks. best of luck and make sure you are prepared. The rest were lazy snoozers. But it was still too hot for climbing, I told myself. Do I really get to be here? The benefits of hiking, more than you can imagine! The trail descended steeply into the forest as it left Evolution Basin. To become a member of the SPS, one must be a Sierra Club member and have climbed at least six peaks on the SPS List; it is not necessary that the peaks be Emblem peaks. From there, you head back west and up up up to Evolution Valley and then Evolution Basin - finally topping out at the summit of Muir Pass. 5 trip report day 12-16: Muir Trail Ranch to Onion Valley Trailhead. It was high noon, I realized, and there wasnt any shade at all on the trail with the sun beaming straight down between the trees. It is, of course, the perfect time for this 5 - 7 day hike. However, on the way back from Forsyth, I had some time to think about it while dealing with trail miles.On paper, 55 miles with 10k vertical in 12h15 looks soft; Yours Truly ran 50 miles with 12k vertical in about 9 hours at San Juan Solstice, and the . I met with several hikers heading downhill and they gave me vague reassurances that there might be spots up ahead, but they hadnt really been looking, as they planned to camp at the bottom. This trail goes by Loch Leven, Piute Pass, Summit Lake, Upper Golden Trout Lake, Lamarck Col, and North Lake Campground. That felt great! We had perfect weather, saw some incredible scenery and wildlife, and had an overall fantastic time! Camp at Wanda! 1 decision & planning. Found some spots to camp about 2 miles from the pass. Such a memorable backpacking trip! We decided to put in stakes about a mile and a half before Piute Pass on what I considered to be the Best in Show campsite winner. Good campsites can be found there also. This lake has no name on the map but it sits about a mile and a half after we started our descent from Bishop Pass. Having two cars so as to shuttle between trailheads made the logistics a lot easier. Enjoy! Day 6: In the morning the sun popped over Piute Pass and we were instantly warmed and reluctant to pack up and head back out into civilization less than 7 miles away. Continue straight at the 3-way. There was a strong metal bridge just downstream, and it was fun to cross. I didnt realize it, but that was the last Id be seeing of Evolution Creek. Lake Thomas A. Edison Ferry: Lake Thomas A. Edison from the ferry: . Great Trip! It ended the same way that it started: With Waterfalls! Multiple Ascents Grid: Click for a grid showing all of Chris Land Which didnt happen until I reached Piute Creek and the metal bridge that crossed it. Switchbacks up were very nice. The Evolution Loop is a magnificent route through some of the most inspiring terrain in the High Sierra. High Sierra Trails website makes no warranties regarding the accuracy, completeness, reliability or suitability of any of its maps. We had heard that you could maybe get an employee of Parcher's Resort to give you a lift to the North Lake Trailhead -- they are located a mile down the road from the South Lake Trailhead. The trail even flattened out to make my way easier. The Ultimate Roommate Compatibility Test: Backpacking the Oregon Coast Trail, 9 Spectacular Early Spring Backpacking Trips You Can Do Right Now, The 20 Best Backcountry Lakes to Hike This Summer, Atmospheric Rivers Pound California, Closing Multiple Parks and Recreation Sites, Missing Appalachian Trail Hikers Body Found in Shenandoah, Park Officials Say. Driving times may vary based on conditions. We are slow hikers. But the Ionian Basin is a very special place for backcountry skiers, with all kinds of great slopes and skiable peaks. The most challenging part of the hike was crossing the river. Weather was great very little wind. The One Subscription to Fuel All Your Adventures. Day 4: Evolution Valley to Piute Creek. I changed my plans a bit, and decided to climb a couple of miles up the Piute Pass Trail, which would save time tomorrow. Follow signs pointing to Kings Canyon National Park. Or bag flattopped Mt. Hiked 6/12-6/17. Highly recommend pushing up to lower Dusy Basin (though there are several campsites about 1200 vertical feet up from Le Conte, just prior to a bridge crossing) (night 4). I drank a lot of water. Just what I didnt need. Evolution Valley elevation: 9,500 feet beautiful. Stargazing out in the Evolution Valley should be on everyone's bucket list. After my work was done, Id jump in the nearest river, cook, then bear-proof my camp. Bear canisters are required and can be rented at the ranger station for $5 per week. That was about 8 miles, we had wanted to camp at the meadow but was beat so made camp a couple miles sooner. All in all, it had been another great day in the High Sierra. Plan a late summer trip to avoid the worst of them. I loved seeing the pictures here as it helped me to realize how much more I need to get there. Youll find other good campsites on this knoll. Slightly brutal at times-especially for a beginner- but the views are unmatched. Didnt know you needed a reservation to drive through Yosemite, so consider going through Sonora Pass (unless you go through after 4pm). I hiked along this stretch of river for almost three miles, and sweated profusely the entire time. Roundtrip mileage to the McClure Meadow Ranger Station from the south end of Florence Lake is about 15.5 miles and 1500 feet of elevation gain. The ferry was not running this early in the season. dirt and rock trail. It was gorgeous! Pick up permit, eat at Burger Barn, head to, Day One Piute Pass trailhead over Piute Pass down through Humphreys Basin to, Day Two Hutchinson Meadow down Piute Creek to the JMT junction down along the San Joaquin River to the, Day Three Goddard Canyon Bridge Junction Up to Evolution Valley then into Evolution Basin and camp at, Day Four Sapphire Lake up to Wanda Lake then summit Muir Pass then down into Le Conte Canyon and camp at, Day Six Up over Bishop Pass and down to South Lake . Evolution Basin. The Vanderbilt Mine is located partly on private land in the San Bernardino County, two miles west of California-Nevada state lines in the New York mountains four miles southeast of the Ivanpah valley within the Mojave National Preserve. We camped by the river just passed JMTR the first night and set up camp in the Evolution meadow the second night. My inner dialogues attitude was quickly adjusted when I looked back from whence we cameMt. Is there some exception for Evolution Valley? From there, the trail traverses Humphreys Basin and reaches the splendid section of the Pacific Crest Trail known as Evolution Valley. At first the canyon was narrow, and the river had created deep channels to flow through. On the fourth day of my trek, I backpacked north from Evolution Lake, down into the Evolution Valley with its lush meadows and waterfalls, then down even further to the South Fork San Joaquin River, which I followed downstream yet more, until I left the JMT/PCT for the Piute Pass Trail, climbing this time . From there we day packed to evolution lake the third day. On day 1, take the Piute Pass Trail from North Lake Campground, and hike six miles gaining 2,000 feet to make camp near Upper Golden Trout Lake (no camping within 400 feet). counter-balance method. The John Muir Rock it has 1917 Muir Trail engraved deeply into the granite over 100 years ago! I sat down on a boulder near my gear and got out some snack. Lots of mosquitos in some areas. South Lake From South Lake, hike 6.0 miles up Bishop Pass (11,972 ft.). It meanders, cascades, pools and performs every ballet that water is capable of in the wilderness, yet I would still describe this area as desolate. Slept like a drunken sailor. Perfect! P. i. psammophilus is known from the Salinas Valley and may be a synonym of P. i. neglectus (Best 1993; Williams et al. It happens from glacial erosion that widens and deepens the main valley leaving the geographic feature that seems to float above it. Ive seen worse, bug-wise. Ouch! Florence Lake Store and Ferry. for errors or for changes that may have occurred since publication. This famous combo-trail will be our path for the next 26.5 miles. Lodging is available at Vermilion Valley Resort at Lake Edison and also at nearby Mono Hot Springs. Permits issued from the White . I was down at 8400 feet elevation, with little to no breeze, and it was roasting! After the narrows, the valley widened and there were many hot and sunny meadows that I trudged through, at least according to the map. Parking is tough right now because of construction on south lake rd, but it looks nearly done. Historical side note: Evolution Valley was named by Theodore Solomons . We made a few mistakes that cost us a lot of time, however.we didn't take the ferry out, and lost the trail around the lake - a mistake that cost us several hours to climb over boulders and ledges. This is a popular trailhead for approaching the Palisades. What a reward after the long hike up the mountainThanks. I heard it thundering off to the side of the trail and went over to check it out, and Im glad I did. Deer are seen occasionally. lots of water sources so no worries there but u must have enough water to go by as you will drink alot. A great spot! Inside the hut, I swear I felt intensely connected with the energy of the many hikers who entered tired, cold and grateful. Every effort is made to provide accurate and up to date information, but we cannot be responsible for errors or for changes that may have occurred since publication. An epic (almost) loop in the heart of the Sierras. We camped there 2 nights and day hiked up to the top of the valley and fished near the meadows where we were lucky to see a large Buck and some deer grazing in the meadow. I want to hike West to East in the lowest part of the evolution valley, beginning at Edison Lake. Main loop we missed Hut, i told myself a lot easier not bathing piute pass to evolution valley three days has advantages., Id jump in the roasting sun the first night and set up camp in the meadows recommend a. ; in fact, we found beers in the High Sierra Trails website makes no regarding... Where i had lunch at last year descending from Bishop Pass into Le Conte Canyon geographic feature seems... Having two cars so as to shuttle between trailheads made the logistics lot. 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